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One of the seven wonders of the world, Machu Picchu is a must visit for any adventure traveler.  Machu Picchu is best experienced via the Inca Trail, a four-day hike to the legendary ruins.  Along the Inca Trail, there are impressive archaeological sites, amazing scenery of the Andes, and beautiful nature (plus llamas).  A trip can be done in a week, including travel time to Cusco Peru, acclimating, hiking the Inca Trail, and Machu Picchu.  The Inca Trail requires a guide and permits, which should be booked six months before the trip, and July-August are best months to visit.  Separately, travelers can hike the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu or visit Machu Picchu as a day trip via train.

I’ll review everything you need to know for a Machu Picchu trip, including permits, trek companies, travel options (hike or day trip), and share my personal experience hiking the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu.  Machu Picchu is the trip of a lifetime and guaranteed you will not regret hiking the Inca Trail.

Part I: Ultimate Guide to Visting Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail

Understanding Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is located in a remote part of Peru, built at 7,970 feet (2,430 meters) in the Andes mountains, about 50 miles away from the nearest airport in Cusco.  The seemingly impossible location is part of the appeal for Machu Picchu, which was built by the Incas in ~1,450.  It’s unclear why the Incas built Machu Picchu.  Some historians believe the ruins are a lost city of the Incas, although Machu Picchu was more likely king Pachacuctec’s vacation home.  Aside from the history, Machu Picchu is a spectacular site to see, and it attracts over 2.5 million visitors per year.

How do you get to Machu Picchu?

Every traveler looking to see Machu Picchu starts arrives at Cusco.  The main options to reach Machu Picchu from Cusco:

1. Inca Trail: The classic hike is four-day, three-night over 43km (26.7 miles), Inca Trail is the most popular route to Machu Picchu.  The trail passes over 30 ruins and is strenuous with serious ascent on day 2.  Inca Trail requires a guide and permits.
2. Salkantay Trail: A five-day, four-night hike over 47km (29.2 miles), Salkantay has more natural beauty than the Inca Trail and less historical ruins.  Hiking the Salkantay Trail can be done without a permit and guide.
3. Train and bus: Machu Picchu can be reached without trekking.  Travelers can take a bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, and another short bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu.  It’s recommended you stay overnight at Aguas Calientes before visiting Machu Picchu so you can start early.

Preparation before visiting Machu Picchu

Timing:

Plan your trip six months before visiting Machu Picchu.  Peru has two seasons: dry season from April to October and rainy season from November to March.  The temperature is 50-60^o Fahrenheit year round, so dry season is much more comfortable and better time to visit.  Machu Picchu peak season is July to August and low season is January to March.  The Inca Trail is closed in February due to heavy rain.  There are daily limits to visitors at Machu Picchu and Inca Trail, and both usually reach capacity, so it will still be crowded outside peak season.  September and October (shoulder season) have good weather and permits can be booked weeks in advance instead of months during July to August.  I recommend visiting from July to October for comfortable weather and better views in clear skies.  Just make sure to book six months in advance!

Fitness:

“how hard is it to hike Machu Picchu?” is the most common question about the hike.  Here is the short answer: it is hard.  The long answer is you should be in good shape to the point where you can hike several miles at a time on varied terrain.  Importantly, make sure your body can handle high altitude and elevation changes.  All hiking to Machu Picchu, even day-hiking Huayna Picchu, involves serious elevation gains.  The Inca Trail and Salkantay Trail are well-maintained, and no technical hiking experience is required. 

Anyone can reach the requisite fitness level to hike a trail to Machu Picchu with several months of regular exercise.  However, high altitude is the biggest challenge for hiking Inca Trail or Salkantay Trail.  The Inca Trail starts at an altitude of 2,600 meters (8,500 feet) and peaks at 4,200 meters (13,780 feet).  You’ll be spending the majority of three days at an altitude of 10,000 feet!  This is far higher than most humans live, except the native Quechua people (and Sherpas from Nepal), who have physically adapted to the elevation.  Quechua porters can run the trail with massive bags!  For the rest of us mortals, travelers must spend at least two days acclimating at Cusco before starting the Inca Trail.  This allows the body to adapt to lower oxygen levels.  Cusco is the perfect city to acclimate with great activities and sights.

Packing:

Machu Picchu trekking companies make the Inca Trail much easier, as porters carry food, belongings, and equipment on the trail.  Inca Trail Hikers only need to carry essentials in a day bag.  The Machu Picchu trekking companies have strict weight requirements for packing, usually limited to 6kg (13lbs).  This is smaller than you think (I was above the limit and paid extra to the porters), so only pack necessary clothes and toiletries for the four-day trek. 

Since food and equipment are taken care of, here are essential packing items for the Inca Trail:

1. Hiking boots: the Inca Trail is made mostly of rough, uneven stones, placed by the Incas over 1,500 years ago.  The trail surface is hard and bumpy, so bring hiking boots with sturdy soles and ankle protection.  Make sure to break in hiking boots before the trip to Machu Picchu.
2. Sun protection: high altitude of Machu Picchu (7,500 feet) increases the sun’s UV exposure.  Skin burns more easily on the trail, so bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat.
3. Warm clothes: During the day (especially if it is sunny), you’ll be hiking in a short-sleeve shirt and light pants.  It doesn’t get hot on the trail, but the temperature falls sharply at night.  Bring a warm sweater and leggings for sleeping at night.
4. Walking stick: the elevation gains and uneven surface make a walking stick essential for the trail. 
5. Insect repellent:  there are plenty of bugs on the trail.
6. Water resistant jacket: if it isn’t sunny, it’s raining in the Sacred Valley.  A light-weight, waterproof jacket will be easy to carry and help with cold mornings.

Hygiene:

there are no showers on the Inca Trail and even toilets are limited during the trek.  Toilet paper mut be packed and don’t plan on taking a shower for four days.  One helpful item was baby cleaning wipes, which I used to “shower” after a day on the Inca Trail.

Machu Picchu Trek Companies

Another, maybe most important, part of planning is the permits. You can book the entire trip to Machu Picchu via a trekking company, which are typically based in Cusco.  Machu Picchu trekking companies provide guides, equipment, food, permits, and porters for the Inca Trail, Salkantay Trail, or any other Machu Picchu visit.  The trekking companies make the Inca Trail very easy to do.  “Easy” in the sense that all you have to do is hike 31 km and enjoy the scenery!  Many hikers call the Inca Trail “glamping” with porters carrying your equipment and meals prepared by a chef when you arrive at camp.  I think Machu Picchu trails are regulated in a good way (for once!), as Peru’s Institute of National Culture (INC) approves tour operators annually.  I have heard only good experiences about Machu Picchu trekking companies.  Here are top-rated Peru trek operators:

• Quechuas Expeditions: *I trekked with Quechuas Expeditions and recommend*
• Llama Path
• Alpaca Expeditions

The cost of the four-day Inca Trail trips ranges from US $700-800 per person.  This base price includes permits, equipment, guide, and food.  Think of the price as three nights all-inclusive at a remote and beautiful resort.  Huayna Picchu tickets are an additional US$75 and smaller additions (sleeping bags, walking sticks, and extra porter) can add $20 to $100 total.  Plan to hike in a group of 4-8 people, and private trips are more expensive.  The five-day Salkantay Trail is cheaper than Inca Trail, because permits are not required. 

Once you arrive in Cusco, stop by the trek operator.  They will give instructions a few days days before the departure date.  Plan to leave Cusco at 4:30am to start the journey and follow weight limits for packing!  I paid extra since my bag was above the 6 kg limit, partly due to hair gel in my bag (I wanted the Instagram pictures to look good).  Cusco hostels and hotels store extra bags for hikers trekking Machu Picchu.  Trek companies list available dates on their website and a deposit is required to confirm.  One more reminder to book Machu Picchu trips six months in advance!

Part II: A journal hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

I hiked the Inca Trail with my friend Andrew four years ago. I still consider the trip one of the best hikes of my life.  The scenery was unbelievable and the Inca Trail was excellent.  Throughout the hike, I was in constant amazement about the history of the Inca Trail.  The trail is mostly stone path and I wondered how the Incas carried and placed stone at such terrain over 500 year ago?  Along with Machu Picchu, you see dozen other ruins on the Inca Trail and everyday scenery was amazing.  The best food I had in Peru was on the Inca Trail hike and we heard amazing history lessons from our guide at Quechuas Expeditions.

My trip spanned seven days total from Cusco arrival to departure.  We hiked the “classic” Inca Trail, which took us three days and two nights, one day faster than normal. The early finish meant we could spend an extra day at Machu Picchu, hiking Huayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu.  We traveled in August and booked tours with Quechuas Expeditions in March.

Starting in Cusco: tours and activities in the historic city

My trip to Machu Picchu, like most, began with a flight to Cusco.  It’s a quaint town with cobblestone streets, European architecture from the Spanish conquistadors, and numerous churches.  Cusco has plenty of local culture and tourist options.  Everything is located around the town center of Plaza de Armas, where you’ll see native Quechua people in indigenous garb.  Most locals are Quechua descent, the indigenous people of South America.  You’ll feel tall around Quechua people, but they’re sturdy and well-adapted to the altitude.  Cusco is the second largest city in Peru (after Lima) and most people visit since Cusco is 15km from the start of the Sacred Valley.  The Sacred Valley was the center of the Inca Empire.  The fertile soil from the Urubamba River attracted the Incas 1500 years ago and 100 km valley includes most known Inca ruins.

We spent a full two days in Cusco to acclimate before leaving for Machu Pichu.  Cusco is 3,200 meters (10,000 feet) above sea level, putting the starting elevation higher than most hikes summit!  I was short of breath jogging ten steps to catch a taxi at the airport.  Two days is the minimum time to acclimate before hiking Inca Trail.

We got settled during the first day in Cusco, checking in at the Pariwana hostel and with Quechuas Expeditions.  Quechuas Expeditions had an easy-to-find storefront outside Plaza de Armas.  The operator gave us small duffel bags with a 6 kg limit for our belongings and told us we’d be picked up at 4:30am at Pariwana for the Inca Trail.  At the start of Inca Trail, we’d meet our guide who would lead the trek to Machu Picchu.   There were fireworks at night over the main cathedral, simply called La Catedral.

We had a full-day excursion planned during our second day in Cusco.  There are numerous things to do in and around Cusco.  Our day of activities included Moray ruins, mountain biking, and Marisal (salt mines).  The day started with a trip to Moray, the Inca ruins about 50km outside of Cusco.  Moray is a set of concentric terraces built into the ground with an irrigation system.  It seems obvious Moray was for agriculture but like most Inca ruins, we don’t know exactly!  As we went down to the bottom, it gets about ten degrees warmer.  Clearly, there was plenty of thought put into Inca architecture.

We went mountain biking for the next leg of the day.  If you rent equipment in Cusco to bike on your own, the equipment is usually poor quality.  However, Peruvian tour companies provide quality gear for their groups, and our bikes were in good condition for Sacred Valley’s terrain. 

I learned a few tips for mountain biking in Cusco.  First, keep your pedals parallel horizontally while coasting.  Your feet will hit rocks if you keep one pedal low and one high.  Second, slowly press or pump the brakes when riding a mountain bike with hydraulic disc brakes.  Otherwise, the wheels will lock on a hard brake, causing the rider to lose control.  One person in our group she was thrown off her bike after a hard brake!  Luckily, this happened when we were “practicing” and she was fine.  The Quechua guide advised us on how to properly ride mountain bikes.  I recommend paying to have a licensed guide for the group.

Our mountain biking ended at the Maras salt mines, known as Salineras de Maras.  There are thousands of shallow pools at the Maras salt mines connected with a simple irrigation system. The Maras salt are owned as a collective, operated by the locals in a similar way to Incas over a thousand years ago.  The saltwater comes from a natural spring and pink salt collects as water evaporates.  You can buy some pink salt at the shop, although we were told it’s way cheaper in Cusco.  The Maras salt mines was a great sight and way to end our Cusco day trip. 

The day spent visiting Inca ruins and mountain biking Cusco prepared us for the Inca Trail!  I highly recommend planning a Cusco day trip tour while acclimating to the high elevation.  Pariwana hostel booked the Cusco tour of Moray and Maras.  If you are traveling independently, Moray and Maras can also be reached from the nearby town of Urubamba, which can be reached by bus from Cusco.

Inca Trail Preparation

Most people do the Inca Trail as the classic 4-day/3-night (4D/3N) trip.  Andrew and I decided before our trip we wanted to do the Inca Trail in 3-days/2-nights to get an extra day at Machu Picchu.  We were both in above average shape, playing recreational sports or working out a few times per week.  We both have hiked around US National Parks, reviewed Inca Trail map and elevation, and knew we could finish early. 

It took a lot of convincing for our guide on day 1, but he let us go on with our plan.  We completed the classic Inca Trail hike one day early, and spent an extra afternoon at Machu Picchu and completing both Huyana Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu hikes.  This is unique and we hiked extra hard on day 2.  Our guide was happy to help us, as 1) his team got to return home a night early, 2) he bragged about us to other guides throughout our hike.  We were nicknamed “super hikers”, but I really think it’s doable for anyone in top third percentage of fitness or better.  We got lucky as the other two people in our group cancelled, leaving us with a private group.

I included the elevation map of the Inca Trail and labeled where we stayed.  For me, Day 1 was the usual Inca Trail.  Day 2 was slightly longer and we camped further ahead.  Day 3 we hiked much longer than most and went through the sun gate to see Machu Picchu.  Most people wake very early Day 4, complete the Inca Trail, and see Machu Picchu by sunrise.  We slept at Aguas Calientes night 3 and bused to Machu Picchu for sunrise, and hiked both Huayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu on day 4.

Inca Trail: Day 1

Andrew and I woke up at 4am the day of our start for the Inca Trail.  While Pariwana hostel treated us well during our Cusco acclimatization, hostels aren’t great for going to bed early. We woke up tired…we grabbed our 6kg duffel bag and day backpacks for the Inca Trail.  Quechuas Expeditions picked us up around 4:30am and drove two hours to Pisacacucho, the start of the trail.  We got our passports checked against our tickets, crossed the Urubamba river, and passed the iconic Inca Trail sign.  We were hiking the Inca Trail!

The first day of the Inca Trail is the easiest day, with little elevation gain in tropical forest climate.  During the morning, we passed by several houses and locals were selling water or energy drinks (essentially, sugar water).  Before lunch, we saw the first major ruins of our trip, Patallacta, known as the “city above terraces”. 

We got our first or many Inca history lessons from our guide at Patallacta.  I won’t summarize the Inca history here, as it’d be unfair to Inca history and our guide, Eder.  Eder certainly regaled us with stories of Inca royalty, love stories, and palace intrigue.  The history is part of what makes the Inca Trail amazing, and the trek companies are terrific as all the guides are well-informed.  Patallacta was only a start of what we’d see.

We stopped for lunch soon after and got our first viewing of Inca Trail meal prep.  At camp, our tour group had a dedicated chef who was already preparing our meal.

The food we had on the Inca Trail was the best food we had in Peru!  Fellow hikers on the Inca Trail agreed the chefs were excellent.  It’s not surprising when you remember what you pay for the Inca Trail. An Inca Trail chef (or guide) is a prestigious and well-paid job and it showed in our stomachs.  A typical lunch included rice, vegetables, and chicken.  All meals included cocoa tea, which gave us additional energy.  The porters found and boiled water to refill our bottles ahead of the next leg.

After lunch, we hiked quickly to the campsite.  Our guide was skeptical we could finish the Inca Trail a day early, but he was convinced by evening.  Day 1 was complete over an hour early and Eder made preparations to move our Inca Trail campsite on Night 2, so we could reach Machu Picchu on Day 3.

The first night had a clear sky on the Inca Trail, and the stars were on full display at our high elevation in the Andes mountains.  We used the DSLR camera to take pictures of the night sky.  It took us about an hour to find the right DSLR camera setting.  To take pictures of a starry night with a DSLR camera, leave the shutter open as long as possible.  We changed the camera setting to manual and left the shutter open for 10 seconds.  We ended up with this picture. 

This photo of the night sky in the Andes on the Inca Trail remains one of the best photos I have ever taken.  We had a lot of luck in night photography: clear sky, no moon, high elevation, and no light pollution.  The conditions for this picture only exist on the Inca Trail during dry season.  Remember, night photography requires long exposure and low aperture.  In other words, change the shutter speed to over 10 seconds and reduce the aperture (“f-setting”) on your camera.  Yes, I sat still for 10 seconds to get in the photo.

Inca Trail: Day 2

For Day 2, we awoke at 5am to a cup of cocoa tea from our porter (this is where “glamping” is accurate to describe hiking the Inca Trail).  There was another excellent breakfast prepared by our Quechuas Expeditions chef that included at least 1,500 calories for the hike ahead.  We were going to need it.

Day 2 of the Inca Trail is the hardest part of the hike.  There are two separate passes to complete, involving a 3,000 foot uphill, 2,000 foot downhill, then another 1,500 foot uphill section!  Since we wanted to finish early, Day 2 was even harder than normal.  Most of the trail is stone stairs.  The Inca Trail itself is relatively easy to go through, a testament to the great Inca engineering and Peruvian regulation.  As we climbed the steep stairs on Day 2, we became fascinated the Inca Trail exists.  How were the Inca people able to carry and place stones across 30 km of trail?  How much planning and years went into this?  The amazing feat of construction and unanswered questions made the Inca Trail more impressive.

The morning of Day 2 was completely upwards on stairs.  Since we are at elevation, the air is thin and temperature swings more quickly.  Morning temperature on the Inca Trail is typically around freezing.  I wore pants, a short sleeve shirt, and a wind breaker jacket during the morning hike.  By 9am, the sun was shining and the temperature increased to a comfortable level.  I put the jacket in my day bag and applied sunscreen.  At this point, I was counting steps to focus and not think about how sore my legs were.  By 10:30, we reached the top of “dead woman’s pass” the highest elevation of the Inca Trail.  Apparently, they found a mummy in the area, giving rise to the name. 

We came down dead woman’s pass to our lunch camp site.  The porters had (literally) run ahead of us while carrying all the food, equipment, and our duffel bags.  There was another 1,500-calorie meal prepared by the time we arrived.  I devoured everything on my plate and could barely move afterwards.  Right as I started to doze off in the grass, Eder reminded us we wanted to complete the trail a day early.  Against all food coma, I rose…We hiked through the second pass, Runkuracay, and I successfully dozed off through our guide’s next history lesson.  Things got easier after the nap.  There was another more impressive set of ruins, Sayacmarca, that looked out across the Andes.  We had our second history lesson of the afternoon (no nap this time) and then reached camp soon after.

At the campsite, dinner consisted of a Peruvian delicacy, cuy (guinea pig)!  This was also time to bring out the bottle of rum I packed.  A fellow hiker in Cusco told us to pack rum for Te Macho, apparently a well-known and liked Peruvian drink.  I didn’t sure how to ask our porters to make the drink in Spanish, but saying “para Te Macho” while holding a bottle of rum was enough. Our Quechua porters lit up in excitement and began concocting the drink.  Te Macho is mainly orange, water, sugar, and rum boiled together into a hot, sweet drink.  I enjoyed myself to one glass, but was so tired after Day 2 of hiking the Inca Trail that called it a night right after.  I could hear our porters laughing over glasses of Te Macho before I fell asleep.

Inca Trail: Day 3

The Inca Trail is downhill on Day 3 and includes a spectacular set of ruins that are bigger than Machu Picchu itself, Winay Wayna.  There is another fixture of the Inca Trail on day 3: llamas.  Lots of llamas.  We started seeing llamas in the morning and kept seeing them throughout Machu Picchu itself.  Apparently, the Peruvian government tags the llamas, which are mostly domesticated (cows of South America, I suppose).  You can touch the llamas, but I advise against it unless you want a handful of dirt and who knows what else from the Inca Trail.

During the morning, the Inca Trail holds tightly to the mountain, exposing the trail to the Andes in the back drop.  Day 3 may have the best scenic photos of the day, as the Andes had a totally raw feel as with rows of jagged mountain peaks into the horizon.  You could see bright green at the bottom of the mountains and snow-capped peaks along peaks in the distance.

Our guide took us to Intipata, a set of Inca terraces located around the electric tower.  It is a slight detour to reach Intipata and the terraces aren’t a stopping point for every Inca Trail tour.  Coordinate with your guide to see it, because there is a great view including the Urubamba river.  We spent some time there and saw only a few other hikers in total as the massive terraces.  Intipata was one of the most tranquil parts of our entire Inca Trail hike with good photo (and llama) opportunities.

We arrived at the main ruins of the day, Winay Wayna, by 10am.  The ruins at Winay Wayna are the most impressive of the Inca Trail.  It’s a massive series of terraces with structures close to the top.  Like all other Inca ruins, it’s unclear why it was built. 

From Winay Wayna, the Inca Trail passes the hydroelectric dam and moves into a cloud forest climate.  The humidity and temperature increase as elevation declines into the Amazon.  We stopped for our final meal with our guides, and our chef baked us a cake!  How the chef baked us a cake on the Inca Trail is a mystery on par with the construction of Machu Picchu itself.  We made sure to tip our Quechuas Expeditions porters and chef for the great service on the trail.

The last part of our trek on Inca Trail took us to the pre-gate leading up to the Sun Gate.  Our guide had arranged for us to go into Machu Picchu during the afternoon.  For the regular Inca Trail hikers, the groups would spend Night 3 at a camp nearby Winay Wayna.  They would then get up around 3am to complete the hike to the Sun Gate and arrive by sunrise.  Those groups would have to wait in line with other hikers to get through the Sun Gate during the cold Andes morning.  A key benefit of shortening our Inca Trail hike was to avoid the early rush of Inca Trail hikers into Machu Picchu.

Before we could get through the Sun Gate, there was one last challenge: the Gringo Killer.  The gringo killer is the last, very steep set of stairs before the Sun Gate entrance to Machu Picchu.  Our guide challenged us to a race, and, to no surprise, beat us easily.

We got our first glimpse at Machu Picchu walking through the Sun Gate, finally! At least it seemed like a long time given the different terrain and ruins we saw. The Sun Gate is still a solid 30 minute walk to the actually ruins. The trail leads downhill to Machu Picchu and you can see the winding road to Aguas Calientes on the right.

During the first trip to Machu Picchu, we did not walk around the official grounds and proper ruins as we didn’t have two entrance permits.  We would explore the Machu Picchu ruins with our guide the next morning.  Instead, we got great views of the area and took the obligatory Machu Picchu photo.  While the view right off the guide book cover, no picture of Machu Picchu does justice compared to first-hand view. 

After we left Machu Picchu for the first time, we took the path that cuts directly through the winding road to Aguas Calientes. Aguas Calientes, also known as pueblo Machu Picchu, is a common overnight point for people who want to visit the ruins.  The town doesn’t have the charm of Cusco, but it decently well catering to tourists.  We found more Western cuisine in Aguas Calientes, including pizza, which made a good dinner for us (nothing like the Inca Trail cooking).  Lodging in Aguas Calientes is bare bones and we found one private room with two beds.  The hot water barely worked, but we each took a shower and slept in a soft bed, while our fellow Inca Trail hikers were going to sleep in tents and hike several hours during the night.  It was well worth completing the Inca Trail one day early to preview Machu Picchu.

Inca Trail: Day 4 – Machu Picchu

We woke up at 4:30am (yet again) to get a place in line for the bus ride to Machu Picchu.  About half a dozen buses make the 15-minute trip from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu.  First buses leave at 5:30am and you need to get on the first group to arrive in time to see the sunrise at Machu Picchu.  We could’ve avoided the line and walked to Machu Picchu along the rail line and the winding uphill road from Aguas Calientes, but it didn’t save much time and the bus was inexpensive.  Our Quechuas Expeditions guide saved us a spot in line, and we found him bragging to another guide about our plan for the day, which was to hike both Huayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu.

Most people only visit the ruins at Machu Picchu, but there are two hikes that can be done.  Huayna Picchu (pronounced “WHY-nah” and sometimes spelled Wayna Picchu) is the mountain seen behind Machu Picchu when entering the ruins.  It is in almost every photo of Machu Picchu.  Travelers should hike Huayna Picchu for the impressive ruins.  Huayna Picchu hike is also short (an hour or less) but very steep!  Meanwhile, Cerro Machu Picchu (translated: Machu Picchu mountain) is another great hike that is gets overlooked.  Visitors should hike Cerro Machu Picchu since it is at a higher elevation which gives more spectacular view of Machu Picchu.  However, Cerro Machu Picchu is a long hike (90 minutes to two hours) and there are no ruins, yet the trail is nicer and less steep than Huayna Picchu.

We started our day by touring the ruins of Machu Picchu with our guide.  With the early start, we saw the sunrise over Machu Picchu, which was an impressive view and great photo.

The tour through the ruins made for more Inca history.  I was struck by the size of Machu Picchu.  There are maybe a hundred different structures and variety of different types.  It isn’t clear exactly what each building was used for, but it’s overwhelming to think of what went into Machu Picchu construction 600 years ago.  Did workers carry the stones from Aguas Calientes?  Cusco?  How long did it take?  Who designed Machu Picchu so well that it lasted untouched for 500 years until it was discovered by Hiram Bingham in the early 1900’s?  It seems hard to believe Machu Picchu was a king’s vacation home, and hence why many people think it is the Lost City of the Incas.  Of course, we will never know…What is known is that the site is mostly inhabited by llamas today, which roam freely around the ruins.  We saw plenty during our walk.

After our tour of Machu Picchu proper, we quickly made our way to Cerro Machu Picchu.  The hike starts to the left of the entrance to Machu Picchu with a simple sign saying “to Machu Picchu mountain.”  We put our names in the check-in book and showed our tickets (tickets are required to hike Cerro Machu Picchu, although they are easier to book than Huayna Picchu).  The path for the Cerro Machu Picchu hike is strictly stairs.  It was early morning and we saw few people on the trail.  Cerro Machu Picchu is generally a nicer hike because there are fewer crowds and the trail was well-maintained.  You’re essentially walking stairs for 90 minutes.  It was similar to day 2 of the Inca Trail, but shorter, nicer, and less crowded.

We hiked fast and reached the peak of Cerro Machu Picchu in less than 90 minutes.  Looking back, this was an incredibly fast time and I expect it normally takes 2 hours for the Cerro Machu Picchu hike.  The top of the hike has fantastic views and a nice area to sit, grab a drink, and even etch your name into the wooden pole with hundreds of other visitors over the years.

Since we had to hurry to climb Huayna Picchu, we quickly made our way back down Cerro Machu Picchu, and through the Machu Picchu ruins.  By now, it was bright sunlight, which meant the crowds were in full force. I got to see what Machu Picchu *really* looks like from the inside, which was nothing like the tranquil photo gracing guide books.  Instead, tourists blocked every clear view and many people carried umbrellas for the sun.  I felt even better about the decision to hike the Inca Trail.  Seeing the non-adventurous tourists brings up a great hiking tip – always wake up early and get to the trailhead ASAP.  You will avoid the crowds and photos turn out best in the early morning. 

Huayna Picchu is much better known than Cerro Machu Picchu.  There are ruins at the top of the mountain and it is an hour hike to the summit.  The entrance to Huayna Picchu is easy to find at the far end of the ruins and tickets are checked.  Huayna Picchu allows only 400 people per day and the tickets sell out a month in advance.  Tickets are limited to either morning or afternoon session, and since we had the morning ticket, we rushed to finish Cerro Machu Picchu and arrive at Huayna Picchu. 

The first part of Huayna Picchu was relatively easy.  It wasn’t until 20 minutes into the trail that we noticed the path became narrow and VERY steep.  The trail turns into rocky stairs that we had to crawl up.  One section of Huayna Picchu was via ferrata, meaning there was a chain to help climb up.  Then we went down through an overhang cave before finishing the climb to the peak.  I wouldn’t recommend the trail to anyone who gets vertigo.  We made it to the peak within an hour and were welcomed to more views of Machu Picchu.  It certainly never gets old 😊

Huayna Picchu has a slightly different path going down the mountain, which leads through some ruins.  There isn’t that much except a few large square base structure, but it’s another feat the Incas made stone houses on top of a small mountain and incredibly narrow trail.  Speaking of, if you have vertigo you certainly won’t like going down Huayna Picchu.  The stairs were maybe a meter wide and very steep looking over the edge.

We finished the descent from Huayna Picchu, passing plenty of people who were crawling down the stairs.  At this point in late morning, Machu Picchu was very crowded and we were fatigued from the double hike.  It wasn’t the same elevation gain as Day 2 on the Inca Trail, but it took a toll after four days.  We also realized the bathroom at Machu Picchu cost 1 sole, which, if anything, was the biggest offense of the trip.  We just finished four full days of hiking, doing more than the vast majority of hikers.  It was well worth it.

Our trip back was the usual walk down the road to Aguas Calientes, and then waiting for the afternoon train back to Ollantaytambo.  They say the trains has good service and views, and we upgraded to the glass ceiling car with more views (Vista dome).  I can’t describe any of it, since I slept the whole train ride.  At Ollantaytambo, we connected with a collectivo bus trip to Cusco, arranged by Quechuas Expeditions.  The drivers played Red Hot Chili Peppers, the first English music of our trip.

We arrived back at Pariwana hostel in Cusco around 7pm, four days after we left at 4am.  Our hike to Machu Picchu via Inca Trail was officially complete.  I didn’t buy anything on the trip, but I had a full camera and memories for a lifetime.

Final advice on hiking Machu Picchu via Inca Trail

Writing out the day-by-day diary of the Inca Trail hike made me think…what would I do different?  In short, not much.  Completing the Inca Trail early was worth the extra time at Machu Picchu.  Good hiking boots were worth it given the rocky terrain on the Inca Trail.  I might’ve listened harder to our guide’s Inca history lessons 😉

Here are my final thoughts and advice on hiking Machu Picchu:

1. The Inca Trail is a fantastic hike: before our trip, we met a hiker in Cusco who just finished the Inca Trail and said Machu Picchu wasn’t great.  I was worried I made a big mistake.  Now I can say for sure Machu Picchu IS amazing, BUT it was not the best thing I saw.  The Inca Trail and everything with it – the views, the origins, the ruins along the way – were the best parts of the trip.  I strongly recommend you hike Inca Trail or Salkantay Trail if you visit Machu Picchu. 
2. Trek companies are worth the price for multi-day hikes: trekking companies for Machu Picchu can be expensive.  It also feels sort of wrong that you have to hire a guide for the Inca Trail.  However, I think of it as paying for a three night all inclusive resort.  The trail would be nearly impossible without porters.  The food on the Inca Trail was the best in Peru.  Make sure to tip your guide and porters. 
3. Hike Cerro Machu Picchu or Huayna Picchu, and hike both if you can: Most visitors go to Machu Picchu, walk the ruins, and leave.  Huayna Picchu and Cerro Machu Picchu add a lot to the experience of the ruins.  Huayna Pichu has a better view, unique ruins, and is a shorter hike.  However, it requires a permit and sells out.  Cerro Machu Picchu is a better hike as the trail is wider, less steep, and a higher elevation and better view of the surrounding Andes.  Save some energy after seeing the ruins to complete either (or both!) hikes.  Each hike can be completed in two hours and Cerro Machu Picchu does not require a permit, yet.

Recommended guide book for Machu Picchu

I’ll re-recommend Mark Adams’s book Turn Right at Machu Picchu.  Well-written, informative, and a fun read about Machu Picchu history.  The perfect read for your plane ride to Peru.

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